ABI Newsletter, Winter 2006

Animals are such agreeable friends - they ask no questions, they pass no criticisms. - George Eliot

Director's Corner
Gary Fortier, Ph.D

Obedience and the Therapy Dog
Janis G. Hammer, VMD

What's new at ABI? Plenty! This semester we are getting ready to offer new courses in Animal Minds & Emotions and Practical Psychology (coming March 2006).

Our partnership with TFC is finalized and we will be offering payment plans next semester for students that prefer to spread their tuition payments over a longer period of time.

You may recall in our last newsletter we discussed one of our behavioral enrichment projects taking place at the Elmwood Park Zoo. Our enrichment activities were a success, reducing problem behaviors and encouraging behavioral diversity in a group of three female wolves. The data is currently being analyzed and prepared for publication. Full results will be published online this spring.

A good therapy animal must have a gentle and outgoing personality. But there is more to it than that. The animal must be well behaved and under control. This applies to any and all species participating. Control takes cooperation between the handler and the animal. The best way to achieve this, particularly with dogs, is obedience training. Most organizations certifying dogs for Animal Assisted Activities or Therapy (AAA/T) require dogs to respond to certain commands.

What commands are important? It boils down to the basics; sit, down, stay, come, and heal. The “leave-it/drop it” command is also useful. I have had many people ask me why their dog won’t pass the evaluation just because he won’t heel (or sit, or down – take your pick). It boils down to safety. A dog that doesn’t listen to its handler is a hazard to everyone involved, including the dog. A dog that is dragging his handler around could trip a client or cause its handler to stumble. A dog that won’t “stay” may approach someone who does not wish to be approached.

The “leave it/drop it” command is useful to protect the safety of the dog. In many AAA/T situations, you may encounter food or medicines dropped on the floor.  It is potentially very dangerous should your dog eat the medication (or food for some dogs). You can help protect your dog by training him/her to “leave it” and “drop it”.

Some people are successful training their own dogs but formal obedience classes are great.  They allow for training as well as help with socialization skills – important for working around people and other animals! Check with your local dog club or veterinarian to find a class.  The Canine Good Citizen Test, which is a program of the American Kennel Club (http://www.akc.org/events/cgc/index.cfm), is an excellent way to evaluate your dog’s ability. It requires basic obedience but also includes social skills such as willingness to accept a stranger, willingness to be around another dog, ability to deal with a crowd, and how he/she responds to distractions. Appearance and grooming are also evaluated which is very important in AAA/T.

A well-behaved dog under control of the handler allows for positive interaction while ensuring the safety of everyone; the client, the handler, and the dog!

Ask the Trainer

Q: Charla, my female tabby cat, has started having litter box "accidents". I often have to travel overnight, so we recently purchased a motorized self-cleaning litterbox, we thought it was the cadillac of boxes! But now Charla has started using the family room carpet instead. Help!!
Kim H. - Durham, NC

A: As with any elimination problem Kim, it's best to bring Charla to your vet to be sure that there isn't any underlying medical problem contributing to the cause (urinary tract disorders, diabetes, arthritis, etc.).

Given that you've recently introduced a change to the elimination routine, the new litterbox is the most likely cause of the problem. Cats and kittens can be pretty particular about where they choose to do their business. Even if the new box seems wonderful to you, Charla may feel otherwise. You mentioned that it's motorized; the sound, movement or other new characteristics (box dimensions, height, type of litter, etc.) can be enough to set her off and cause her to go elsewhere.

So what to do? First of all, timing is crucial. You must get her to stop using the carpet pronto before it becomes a habit! Even if Charla has used a litterbox regularly in the past, she can develop new location preferences. I recommend bringing the old litter box back and praising her for using it to get her off the carpet immediately.

To switch her over to the new, motorized box try a combination of habituation and counterconditioning. Put the two boxes side by side and unplug the motor on the new box. You probably know when Charla is most likely to need the box (after napping, eating, etc.) so you can be there at least some of the time to reward and praise her whenever she uses the new box.

When she has become comfortable with the alternate litter box (uses it without hesitation) you can begin to train her to accept the motor. You can countercondition her by rewarding her immediately after you trigger the motor to run (I've used a drop of tuna oil off my finger for my cat). Through repeated short training sessions you can teach her to accept the machine.

In the last stage, if she is using both boxes but prefers the old box, allow the original litterbox to get a bit soiled. Cats prefer to use a clean box and she should start using the motorized box more often. When she is using the new box without hesitation, remove the original litterbox and Charla should be ready to go. Good luck!